A few questions about arrow designs?  This is primarily focused on Compound bow needs and not traditional archery.  Opinions are known and believed from working with different arrow types and such for a while now.  Opinions expressed are from experience.  There is not an exact right and wrong way but knowing something can save you time and money.  You can always call us for more info.

 Q: What arrow should I shoot with my bow?   A: The best thing to do is refer to the arrow charts on the tab right above this tab.  Know your bow draw length, the poudage you shoot, and the type of cam on your bow.

Q:  What is Spine?  A:  Spine is a word referring to the stiffness of a shaft.  Typically the lower the number the stiffer the shaft, and the less it will "bend" so to speak.  Lower poundage bows require of less stiff shaft.  Lower the poundage of the draw on the bow, the higher the "Spine" number you will need.

Q:  What is the best hunting arrow?  A:  That all depends on your level of shooting, what you are hunting, and your terrain you are usually hunting in.  These questions will direct you to the type of shaft That may be best for you.  We can help with this

Q:  What is Easton NFused?  A:  In simple terms it is a type and method of carbon used.  It utilizes Nano Tubes inside the carbon that is much stronger than just carbon and resin extruded together.  It basically gives the arrow more material instead of a "filler".  Kind of like concrete having too much filler and not enough concrete or the real thing.  Makes a stronger arrow.

Q:  What is the straightness factor, the .006 and .002 etc.?  A:  That is a measurement used to show the average straightness of arrow shafts in a given arrow make and type.  Pay attention because some will be a per arrow straightness guarantee and some will be the straightness within a whole dozen.  This in my opinion is exagerated.  Much more important is spine consistency.  See spine above.  Basically all of your arrows need to "bend" the same amount when shot.  That is much more important than straightness.

Q:  Arrow Recovery?  A: this is the term used to recognize how quickly an arrow shaft can straighten out after being bent as the bow is pushing it forward off of the string.  All arrow have a bending or whipping action when shot.  How quickly it can straighten out and get on a level flight path is critical.  Pro shops know the ones that tend to be better just from working with a lot of them.  Just ask.

Q:  Do I need a light arrow or heavy arrow?  A:  There is not a short answer for this one.  It again depends on what you want to accomplish.  How will you use the arrows.  Just for hunting?  Average shot distance?  Animal hunting?  Bow and poundage of draw?  Do you like one pin or multiple pins on your sight?  It all boils down to what you want to do.  For pure hunting, I would lean to a heavier arrow in the 400-450 grain range.  The fact is they are easier on average to tune, the arrow recovers quicker, and it is more than likely going to shoot a broadhead better.  And the energy of the arrow when it hits is adequate.  It will also quiet your bow a bit since there is more stored energy going into the arrow and not out of the bow.

Q  What is the best arrow maker?  Q: They all have advantages and disadvantages.  We sell and work with respected manufaturers that have proven over time to make good arrows.  Period.  Any of them when properly made up with fletching and a nice square cut with the tip insert installed squarely will perform more consistently than a human.    Call and we can help with that one also.

Q:  How long of an arrow should I shoot?  A:  Again refer to the arrow charts.  Not too long and not too short.  Whatever tunes well with your bow.

Q:  Fletching with Plastic Vanes or Feathers?  A:  Vanes are less maintenance and durable.  Feathers grab a lot of air and stear an arrow very straight.  Vanes do not absorb moisture in rain, feathers will.  Feathers are very light and do not add much weight to the back of your arrow.  Get my point?  Give and take.  I think and have always thought that feathers look cool.  But cool does not take home the bacon!  

Q:  Are aluminum arrows inferior to graphite arrows.  A:  Oh boy.  That depends on who you ask.  For general purposes I believe they are.  But for precision you cannot beat aluminum.  For the average shooter that wants to shoot arrows and know it is straight, carbon graphite is nice.  ALWAYS CHECK EVERY ARROW EACH TIME YOU SHOOT IT TO MAKE SURE IT IS NOT CRACKED OR BROKEN!  Carbon arrows today will take a lot of abuse and collisions with other arrows and still be in tact.  Aluminum and aluminum/carbon arrows will bend.  Aluminum can be extruded more consistent than carbon for straightenss and spine consistency.  But for hunting purposes, I personally like a 100% carbon graphite shaft.

Q:  What is Spin Checking your arrows? or, Why will my broadheads not spin-check square or wabble?  A:  When you screw a broadhead onto an arrow shaft, into the insert, it must be square to the shaft.  Spin-checking is when you screw the broadhead on and spin the arrow on a flat surface, or roll it, or better yet get a cheap spin checker with a couple of wheels on it.  Place the arrow in the spin checker, put the broadhead against a flat wall area with the tip on a tiny dot, and spin the arrow and see if the point of the broadhead wobbles or stays right on the spot.  If it doesn't, do something different.  With todays top broadheads, and the machining done to very good tolerances, it is more than likely your insert is not square.  Your arrow shaft was cut off and lot cut off square, or the insert itself can be off square.  Try another broadhead.  If it does the same thing, it is the arrow, probably.  If it works with another head, it may be the broadhead.  G5 makes a very good arrow squaring tool to square the carbon end when cutoff and also to cut the insert and square it up after installing in the arrow end.  I do this to every one of my hunting arrows that have broadheads on them.  You should also.             

For more answers to your questions give us a call at 573-624-5421 or email us at ino@americanoutdoorsonline.com

Mark Jacques owner

American Outdoors and americanoutdoorsonline.com

Pictured below is the G5 arrow prep tool that squares the end of the cut shaft and the insert.  It is precise and it works very well.  

An inexpensive spin checker pictured above.  You should have one of these.